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美国牛肉在北京遇冷: 卖不出去 员工分着吃

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当地时间5月12日,财政部副部长朱光耀公布了“中美经济合作百日计划早期收获”文件,规定中方最迟不晚于今年7月16日允许进口美国牛肉。自2003年,受“疯牛病”困扰的美国牛肉被包括中国在内的亚洲、南美国家禁止进口后,历经14载终于从官方渠道重返中国。8月初,6家澳大利亚工厂生产的牛肉,因标签标示不符合标准,被暂时禁止进入中国市场。据澳大利亚官员称,这几家工厂在澳大利亚对中国牛肉出口中约占一半。这一情况同样被认为是对美国牛肉的重大利好。

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iF|H6ZA8Wo!E p!m0在这样的形势下,美国牛肉是否能和国产牛肉、澳洲牛肉三足鼎立,成为中国老百姓餐桌上的重要食材?《华夏时报》记者走访了北京的几家大型连锁及进口商品超市,只在沃尔玛山姆会员店发现少量进口美国牛肉。实际情况来看,美国牛肉返华目前还只是“雷声大雨点小”,并未进入大批量的实质阶段。然而,在美方对华发起新一轮“301”调查的背景下,美国牛肉在中国市场的前途又蒙上了一层阴影。

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3Nt[%} |6p0北京难寻美国牛肉

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,tU#b-F8w[ az0在此前的报道中,上个月在另一家门店石景山店,这些“极佳”及“特选”级别的美国牛小排首发价格为178元每斤,并且限量供应,不到几天即被抢购一空。加拿大起点网,U.m:vMx:G

TZK`8U08月15-25日,记者集中探访了北京的几家家乐福、物美等大型连锁超市,三源里菜市场以及城市超市、BHG、Blt、华润Ole、绿叶子等进口商品超市,并没有发现美国牛肉的踪迹。加拿大起点网u7i.g+V&oe%iEb

H3lK+XN0据悉,家乐福超市将进口的美国牛肉布局在华南区,即广州、深圳、中山、珠海等城市,在北京依然只供应内蒙古科尔沁公司所产的国产牛肉及进口的澳洲牛排。物美集团于7月26日在北京沁山水店举行了美国牛肉上市的首发仪式,然而记者探访的东四十条奥士凯物美店并没有出售美国牛肉。见到前来寻找的记者,工作人员还十分不解:“找美国牛肉干吗,国产牛肉不好吃吗?”

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而在位于侨福芳草地商场的城市超市,生鲜柜台的工作人员告诉《华夏时报》记者,他们曾经出售过美国牛肉,牛眼肉、牛上脑、牛肋条等位置相对好卖一些,唯独牛排价格最贵,要400多元一公斤,很难卖出去。“到最后也没卖出去,我们员工自己分着吃了。”她说,此后该超市尚未再进购美国牛肉。

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`:^c eto0沃尔玛山姆会员店是首家线下出售美国进口牛肉的零售商,在北京亦庄店,记者看到两盒经过称量、包装好的散装美国谷饲牛小排,售价是215元/斤。而整个冷柜里,其他三排上百个散装牛肉盒均是不同部位的澳洲牛肉、牛排,这样的冷柜也有两个,另一个同样是大量的澳洲牛肉及少量产自巴西、阿根廷等南美国家的牛肉。

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实体店如此,线上又如何呢?

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1Tse!r y"o0记者致电号称首先网络发售美国牛肉的电商平台“天天果园”,该平台工作人员告诉记者,由于供应商的问题,北京地区目前不能购买美国牛肉,现有商品只供给珠三角、长三角一带的城市。中粮我买网销售牛肉品类有特选级谷饲牛上脑、牛肋条、肉眼牛排,价格分别为125元/斤、105元/斤及244元/斤。加拿大起点网 h.U A&TQ}K

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6E zE A3f)v(k"Ep$RZ0商务部数据显示,2016年中国的牛肉消费量已达800万吨,市场规模更是高达3600亿元。去年牛肉进口量达到82.5万吨,大部分都来自澳大利亚、乌拉圭和新西兰等国。业内人士指出,目前国内牛肉市场缺口已经超过200万吨,美国牛肉若能实现大批量进口,有望填补这一缺口。加拿大起点网X5Jm8Qlhg

*M~s'TY:x-UK#\#j0虽然市场有缺口,但消费者心里也有疑虑。加拿大起点网vmO#P%cd

I^;Xy}0“美国牛肉刚刚解禁,很多人心里还存留着疯牛病的阴影。”天津市农村工作委员会的一名工作人员表示。同样的情况也可以在网络上看到,在许多讨论美国牛肉的帖子下面,都有“买这个不怕疯牛病吗”的留言。

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另一个问题是价格。但无论是从线上还是线下平台,比较售价就可得知美国牛肉较国产、澳洲牛肉价格高出不少,最高标价甚至接近500元一公斤,超出了普通家庭的承受能力,一定程度上造成了某些超市美国牛肉的滞销。

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此前,为了保证进口牛肉的安全,我国划设了非常严格的准入条件,只有30个月龄以下剔骨和带骨牛肉可以进口,包括心、肾、肝、瓣胃、牛筋;输华牛肉的牛须有完善的记录,可以保证追溯到牛的出生农场;不得检出中国法律法规禁止的非天然产生的兽药、促生长剂、饲料添加剂和其他化合物,包括瘦肉精。按照此前美国专家估计,只有10%左右的美牛符合这一标准,而在美国农业部对牛肉质量划分的8个等级中,也属于最好的特优、特选、优选三个。加拿大起点网,Wa4_ `y

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其实,即使在美国,牛肉价格也并不算便宜。家住美国新泽西(专题)州的小王向《华夏时报》记者表示,当地鸡肉最便宜,其次是猪肉、牛肉,羊肉价格最高,某些质量较好的牛排价格也十分高昂,“基本上牛排贵,用来炖的牛肉最便宜。”

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而从更长远的角度看,8月18日美国总统特朗普(专题)又挥起“301”大棒,发动对华贸易战,为中美经济合作刚刚建立的良好开端又埋下了危险的种子。布鲁金斯学会约翰·桑顿中国中心资深研究员杜大伟表示,如果美国真的采取保护主义措施,例如对中国产品全面实行进口关税,那么中国肯定会采取一些限制,包括在购买飞机、大豆等商品方面转向。

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]qScbTY+S3e%f0在这种情况下,美国牛肉是否能突出重围,回归2003年前中国的第二大牛肉出口国的地位,仍然是个未知数。加拿大起点网Dv wG{/i

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